Sunday, May 26, 2013

THE BARBEQUE EXCHANGE


102 Martinsburg Ave
Gordonsville, VA 22942
Phone:
(540) 832-0227
Open 8am-11PM

There are plenty of places to get ordinary quality food in Central Virginia, but we hope you will find few meals as disappointing as the meal we ate at The Barbeque Exchange in Gordonsville recently.  If your standards for Barbeque are very low, or if you are friendly with the owner, you might actually write a positive review.  
The Barbeque Exchange is easy to find on Rt. 15 on the right as you come into Gordonsville from Zion Crossroads or Interstate 64.  If you eat outside on the porch, you may catch some diesel exhaust from trucks in the parking lot.  On May 25, 2013, two of us found the food to be unpalatable, though (with one exception) not quite inedible.
All of the “hot” food we ate was served in a lukewarm condition -- and on the cool side of lukewarm at that.  The lukewarm Beef Brisket was slightly too chewy.  The Pulled Pork Barbeque was served rather too far toward the cold side of lukewarm, and worse, it was served on a semi-stale roll that had been neither steamed, nor warmed nor toasted. 
It should be unnecessary to point out that holding meat on a serving line at a lukewarm temperature is a dramatic violation of basic sanitary procedure that the proprietor should correct immediately.  Perhaps investing in a few instant read thermometers for the serving line would the servers keep serving temperatures of the pulled pork and brisket in the “safe” range. 
Re-chilling and then re-heating leftover meats that were held at a lukewarm temperature on the previous night, might actually be a health hazard.  I am sure it is something the Louisa County Health Inspector may check before long.
As for the coleslaw at The Barbeque Exchange, the cabbage had been chopped chunky instead of being shredded, and … the dressing had scarcely any flavor. 
The lukewarm collard greens, which we love when done right (and which are hard to ruin), had not been stewed long enough to create a suave mix of cooked greens and smoked pork flavors in the pot likker.  Worse, one of the two servings we ordered  had plenty of grit (it was dirt, not salt or pepper, just gritty dirt or sand) throughout one portion, indicating it had not been properly washed.  Very little pot likker was served in the cups.  The hushpuppies, though tasty, had cooled off before they were served.  We don’t balk at eating cold hushpuppies, but generally we save cold hushpuppies for a dog we love.  The Mac and Cheese, recommended by a friend as outstanding, was served on the cold side of lukewarm and had congealed to a stiff consistency when it should have been creamy.
One element of our  experience at Gordonsville’s Barbeque Exchange stood out as substantially less than lukewarm, however: the level of hospitality from the cashier and the servers was impolite, unhelpful, downright rude and could even fairly be called teenage-snotty.  We had to carry a bottle of that good cane sugar Dominion Ginger Ale back inside to get it opened. 
That Dominion Ginger Ale was the only thing we really liked. 
We ate on the porch on a Saturday night watching a gorgeous sunset over the Southwestern Mountains.  The Barbeque Exchange wasn’t that busy, though a fairly large party of what seemed to be Mennonite farmers and their bonneted wives just leaving as we came in. 
The lukewarm undercooked brisket at The Barbeque Exchange was actually slightly tough, and we felt the slices were a bit too thick.  There were no burnt ends, and there was no smoky exterior crust.  Worse, the brisket was so lacking in flavor that we thought it might have been stewed before it was smoked.  There was no fat on the brisket’s exterior, and none on the interior neither.  Only the cheapest leanest old cows have that kind of brisket.  Fat augments flavor.  The pulled pork barbeque at The Barbeque Exchange also lacked flavor, perhaps for the same reason. 
We wondered why the Barbeque Exchange enjoys such a good reputation, and concluded that, after all, it is pretty much the only restaurant within a ten mile radius.  The table sauces were fair. 
We’ve had much better barbeque recently, and truly outstanding sides at The Hogshead CafĂ© on Broad Street in Richmond’s West End, where the Hogshead, the service is also outstanding (and friendly) – and you can get a fabulous freshly-made limeade.
The good people at The Barbeque Exchange in Gordonsville have a lot to learn, especially in the basic areas of hospitality and serving hot food at a hot temperature.  A bun steamer on the kitchen line might help.  The ribs might have been better than the brisket or the pulled pork, but after an experience like ours, well … 
Would you hurry back any time soon?
Despite all this, we are glad there’s a restaurant in Gordonsville. 
It’s been awhile.