Thursday, December 20, 2012

EASY CALDO VERDE


Requires about 80 minutes.
Really, Caldo Verde is  just kale or collards or even broccoli soup thickened with mashed potatoes.  Linguiça is a main flavoring, and you can get some very good linguiça at The Belmont Butchery in Richmond, Virginia.

However, ordinary country sausage might be too sage-y. Couple slices of smoked jowl?  Few drops of smoked flavoring or smoked torula yeast? Or, really, you can just use California olive oil and vegetables.

Caldo Verde is really easy:
Brown up some linguiça or other sausage in your soup pan while you slice several onions.  And mince two or three cloves of garlic.  

(Alternatively, for a vegetarian version, just start with onion and butter or olive oil, and skip sausage completely.  But why skip the sausage if you live within driving distance of The Belmont Butchery?)

Chorizo or andouille, I think might have too much black pepper for some people to use them in Caldo Verde.


While the onion and sausage become nicely browned, peel a large baking potato, cut in half lengthwise and crosswise.  Put in with onions and garlic.  Add a diced carrot and a diced stick of celery. if you have some.


Wash the kale very thoroughly, especially if it is curly kale.  Purple kale works well.  Cut off the ends of the stems, and then cut the stem ends into short bits. 
When the onion and sausage have browned, add good water to come up pretty full.   But not too full for adding all that shredded collards or kale.  Put all the stems  in the pot.  Season with bay leaf and thyme and maybe a bit of rosemary.  You can add an ancho chili if you like, after removing its stems and seeds.

Add broth, stock, or essence, if you have some.  Chicken or beef or vegetable.  Bring to boil and simmer until the potatoes are tender.  You may add a handful of quinoa (washed and then toasted) or a handful of organic short grain brown rice for more strength, if you like.  Add 1/4 of the shredded kale.


Pull the sausages out and slice them into eating chunks, then return them to the pot.  Or brown some tofu in olive oil and use that instead.  Continue to simmer.  Ten minutes before serving, raise heat to a good but not furious boil. 
Put in the rest of the kale shreds.  After the liquid boils (not long, the kale should stay slightly crunchy) mash the potatoes right in the pan with a smasher   The soup will thicken up.  Adjust the seasoning (the salt, especially, because the potatoes will absorb salt.)  Add a dash of vermouth or Port.
Turn off the heat and let stand, covered, for about five minutes while the guests assemble at the table. 

Put a spoon of the best California Olive Ranch Olive Oil in each bowl.  Ladle the soup in. A spoon of the real grated sheep milk romano cheese from Italy will be an ideal sprinkle-on.

Drink good red wine.  Or good white wine.  Or Port.  Not vinho verde.  And certainly not Mateus. -- Christian Gehman

Wednesday, December 19, 2012

El Parian - My True Favorite of All Great Tacos in Los Angeles

 El Parian
1528 W Pico Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90015
Neighborhood: Pico Union
(213) 386-7361

El Parian was my favorite taco place when I lived in Los Angeles -- it's down near the Omni.  El Parian's storefront window on Pico has intimidating heavy bars, and looks a bit like like a jail in a small town in Mexico.  The front entrance, alongside the grill up front, is small and narrow, but El Parian expands to barn size in back.  You'll probably drive right by it the first time -- signage is neither great nor noticeable, but just turn at the next corner and pull into the spacious parking lot in back, which goes all the way through the block.  The parking lot will often be full of cars that are better set up than the one you're driving.  Go in through the back door and sit down at an empty table.  Wait for a waitress.  Order a beer and some tacos.  Get a full plate if you want and make your own.  If you're really in a hurry, you can order up front and wait for takeout.  but then the waitresses won't smile at you.

You'll feel safe inside, unless you don't like tacos -- or unless Latinos frighten you as much as they do my sister Marthat Gehman.  The food's great at El Parian, and you get plenty of it.  Carne asada tacos ... Carnitas tacos ... Lengua ... Cabeza ... Birria ... whatever you like.  Get a plate or takeout.  I used to drive down from the corner of Western and Santa Monica, which seemed like a hike ... but I was always happy I made the trip.

And you will be too.

On my first visit I got a bag of tacos to go -- carnitas and carne asada -- and they smelled so good I pulled over halfway home and ate them all. Then I went back the next day. 
  
El Parian's motto is:
"Como hay solo uno Mexico,
hay solo uno El Parian."
("Just as there is only one Mexico,
there is only one El Parian.")

There may well be better tacos in Los Angeles -- but I never ate one. 
The waitresses who bring your beer and your food will smile very kindly if you stumble over a few words of Spanish.

There is dancing at night - sometimes - Fridays and Saturdays? - on the big dance floor, so lunch to late afternoon might be your best bet.

Most other customers will usually be Latino.  Not many will be women.

The storefront on Pico has intimidating, heavy bars, looks a bit like like a a jail -- in a small town in Mexico.  The entrance, alongside the grill, is very narrow, but El Parian expands to barn size in back; swing around and park in back like everyone else.

Quality and Service can be a bit uneven, but beer is cold and the restrooms are clean.  AND THE FOOD IS ALWAYS GOOD.

Trust me, you'll like El Parian -- unless you don't like tacos, or unless people who speak Spanish frighten you as much as they frighten my best-loved half sister Martha Gehman.


El Parian on Urbanspoon

Monday, December 10, 2012

Green Beans Pizza, Panko Crust Bread

Okay, I didn't invent Green Beans Pizza.  But .... on the other hand ....

Adding French Haricots Verts from Trader Joe -- or fresh green beans from your garden -- to any frozen pizza (these days LL and I  are favoring Paul Newman's Thin Crust Plain Cheese) is a wonderful idea.  And we never heard of it before.  Start with a frozen pizza.  Add green beans.  I blanced my green beans.  I considered tossing them with olive oil and garlic -- would have been good.
Then I added some fresh mozzarella cut thin here and there and baked until done.  With a salad of romaine lettuce, rocket, radicchio, parsley, capers, and thick slices of avocado dressed with lemon juice and California Olive Ranch olive oil ... well, we were so happy we watched an episode of Scandal.

Now, as to this business of the panko crust ... for bread.  I never read about this anywhere.  Started one day when I ran out of corn meal, which is what I usually sprinkle on the baking sheet to keep bread from sticking.   So I used pankl crumbs instead.  Worked greaat.  Much, much better than corn meal.  the bottom crust not only didn't stick to the pan, it developed a wonderful crunch that lasted several days.  The bottom crust was so good I tried rolling the entire loaf in panko ... equally good result -- very crunchy crust, with long lasting crispiness.   Try it!  -- Christian Gehman

FULL KEE -- REAL CHINESE

6400 Horsepen Rd 
RichmondVA23226

Congee - Full Kee is a great Chinese place with good dim sum and wonderful congee, barbecued duck and red cooked pork. It's not always tame, nor is it always spic and span or tidy -- but the dim sum cart is very, very entertaining, and if you like "real" Chinese food then this is the place for you. The chicken feet are also wonderful. If you don't like bao (pork buns), maybe there's something amiss with your approach to gastronomy? Diners wanting bland American style "Chinese" food like orange chicken or "chop suey" will do better at the Peking and in any case would do well to please leave the seats at Full Kee to those of us who like real Chinese food, especially on the weekends when seating is at a premium.
Used to be, one had to drive to DC to visit the restaurant with two doors to see a real Chinese menu -- or to taste real Chinese food.  Not since Full Kee opened. 
Although there is not much reason to call ahead, the telephone number is (804) 673-2233.  
I HAD A GREAT BOWL OF CONGEE WITH ROAST PORK, to which I added some stir fried Chinese vegetables. LL seemed a bit uncomfortable with the Chinese family atmosphere, slovenly housekeeping, and  food that was strange to her. The dim sum cart frightened her -- too much stuff that she found very strange. 


.  I have no idea what the name means.  -- Christian Gehman

Full Kee on Urbanspoon