1528 W Pico Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90015
Neighborhood: Pico Union (213) 386-7361
El Parian was my favorite taco place when I lived in Los Angeles -- it's down near the Omni. El Parian's storefront window on Pico has intimidating heavy bars, and looks a bit like like a jail in a small town in Mexico. The front entrance, alongside the grill up front, is small and narrow, but El Parian expands to barn size in back. You'll probably drive right by it the first time -- signage is neither great nor noticeable, but just turn at the next corner and pull into the spacious parking lot in back, which goes all the way through the block. The parking lot will often be full of cars that are better set up than the one you're driving. Go in through the back door and sit down at an empty table. Wait for a waitress. Order a beer and some tacos. Get a full plate if you want and make your own. If you're really in a hurry, you can order up front and wait for takeout. but then the waitresses won't smile at you.
You'll feel safe inside, unless you don't like tacos -- or unless Latinos frighten you as much as they do my sister Marthat Gehman. The food's great at El Parian, and you get plenty of it. Carne asada tacos ... Carnitas tacos ... Lengua ... Cabeza ... Birria ... whatever you like. Get a plate or takeout. I used to drive down from the corner of Western and Santa Monica, which seemed like a hike ... but I was always happy I made the trip.
And you will be too.
On my first visit I got a bag of tacos to go -- carnitas and carne asada -- and they smelled so good I pulled over halfway home and ate them all. Then I went back the next day.
El Parian's motto is:
"Como hay solo uno Mexico,
hay solo uno El Parian."
hay solo uno El Parian."
("Just as there is only one Mexico,
there is only one El Parian.")
There may well be better tacos in Los Angeles -- but I never ate one. there is only one El Parian.")
The waitresses who bring your beer and your food will smile very kindly if you stumble over a few words of Spanish.
There is dancing at night - sometimes - Fridays and Saturdays? - on the big dance floor, so lunch to late afternoon might be your best bet.
Most other customers will usually be Latino. Not many will be women.
The storefront on Pico has intimidating, heavy bars, looks a bit like like a a jail -- in a small town in Mexico. The entrance, alongside the grill, is very narrow, but El Parian expands to barn size in back; swing around and park in back like everyone else.
Quality and Service can be a bit uneven, but beer is cold and the restrooms are clean. AND THE FOOD IS ALWAYS GOOD.
Trust me, you'll like El Parian -- unless you don't like tacos, or unless people who speak Spanish frighten you as much as they frighten my best-loved half sister Martha Gehman.
